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Post by rock on Jan 10, 2017 13:50:49 GMT
Erik,
Another thing about the DW sandwich: If you test/measure first then/measure again after DW sandwiching, you'll have solid data. If you need more Isolation, the DW sandwich will only add to the isolation performance.
Cheers, Rock
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Post by Hexspa on Jan 11, 2017 3:03:14 GMT
Hey Hexspa, Even though you're right about the ceiling height etc., I disagree with your advice to out of hand forget about isolation. It's a very subjective thing and I believe Erik needs to determine that for himself. I have built and used a few isolated rooms and IMO, being able to blast in one room and hear only a faint whisper in the next, is a beautiful thing! Sure it takes planning, effort and money but Erik has Rod's book and that's more than I had when I was building studios:) Cheers, Rock Caveat: I've been drinking. It's my currently policy to not post after even one sip. But, in this case, I'm not triggered so I'll continue. I have minimal experience with isolation construction. It just seems way difficult and not always producing great results even with substantial effort. By all means pursue goals. But, since OP considered just using absorption, I was just voicing my opinion. -m
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Post by rock on Jan 11, 2017 12:57:59 GMT
You're absolutely right, to implement a significant degree of acoustic isolation requires substantial cost and effort and if it's not done right, it's easy to have wasted some or even all of that that cost and effort. So yeah, if you don't need it, I agree "forget about it!". My point as you understand is only to let the OP decide and to give him the guidance to make the decision that will suit his purposes.
Erik, in your specific case regarding isolation or any kind of permanent construction with drywall etc.: You are starting with a "clean slate", whatever you do now may either create obstacles or not regarding and future plans you may have. My advice is just try to think ahead and don't paint yourself into a corner:)
Case in point: When I moved into my current house, the basement was finished but empty. If I had the foresight that my future bands (which did not exist at the time) would be rehearsing and recording here, I might have torn down the ceiling and properly isolated. Now, it's out of the question so the rest of the family just puts up with the racket. You may never have such a situation but there it is.
Cheers, Rock
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Post by vego99 on Jan 11, 2017 15:53:10 GMT
Again, thank you all for the suggestions as I will be taking them in to consideration. That being said, yes I am starting with a clean slate and I do not want to "paint myself in a corner" as you say.
I guess I can progressivly test isolation As mentioned before. Since the basement ceiling is open, it's easy enough to layer the DW and install insulation/roxsul. That would have to be done regardless of of DWing or keeping the ceiling open. Secondly, when framing in. Can always test isolation with 1 wall created and then if needed add a second? Since 3/4 of the wall surfaces are concrete, only 1 framed wall would be needed regardless of room in room or unisolated room, yes?
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Post by rock on Jan 11, 2017 16:56:27 GMT
Secondly, when framing in. Can always test isolation with 1 wall created and then if needed add a second? Not exactly sure what you mean above but if you're referring to a double wall VS single wall remember M-A-M (in Rod's book): you only want TWO layers of mass (can each be composite of multiple sheets DW thick) separated by ONE layer of "Air" (insulation). No More, No Less. Since you can get to both sides of the wall later, you can add more sheets of DW later to each side to increase isolation (but you of course won't be able to increase the size of the "Air" space later.) To isolate the two mass layers, use true double stud framing, staggered stud framing, or standard framing using resilient channel (on only one side)...It's all in Rod's book. If you have 8" depth or more in the joists, lower density is good rather then the more expensive mineral wool. If you do get to the point where you are going to drywall the ceiling, I would recommend you just go with 2 layers as it's only a extra 5/8 " you'll loose. RC are probably the most practical/easy way to install the ceiling DW. The other staggered joist schemes look pretty tricky but will give better isolation. For your one framed wall yes, but make sure your other concrete walls are caulk sealed with the ceiling at all layers and do not allow leakage or "flanking". Moving ahead, as far as acoustic treatment goes, all that vapor barrier covered insulation probably is doing a fair amount of bass trapping. Framing in front of them but NOT drywalling or paneling but stretching fabric will preserve the LF you've already got. In the framing, you can add un-faced insulation for reflections and ambience control and faced across the corners for bass traps. You can use studs on 24" to accommodate wider insulation and save on lumber. Cheers, Rock
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