42mb
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Posts: 12
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Post by 42mb on Mar 31, 2017 1:06:29 GMT
correct, on the ceiling side just below the floor joist.
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Post by rock on Mar 31, 2017 1:42:35 GMT
Those 5/8" thick tiles with the plastic membrane removed may be less sturdy so I think you may need to have a little extra support for the insulation above. You'll have to try it and see.
Cheers, Rock
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42mb
New Member
Posts: 12
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Post by 42mb on Mar 31, 2017 1:50:04 GMT
Thanks Rock,
Yes, I agree. I have some extra so I may double them up. Any worries with using spray adhesive to attach the fabric. Would it affect the performance ......
42mb
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Post by Hexspa on Mar 31, 2017 2:34:29 GMT
Thanks Rock, Yes, I agree. I have some extra so I may double them up. Any worries with using spray adhesive to attach the fabric. Would it affect the performance ...... 42mb Generally using glue isn't advised except for the case of attaching FRK. You could reinforce the tiles with said FRK and then place fabric over that. But if you have to use glue then go light with it. Besides it'll bleed through the fabric really easily. -m
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42mb
New Member
Posts: 12
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Post by 42mb on Mar 31, 2017 3:38:19 GMT
I thought the FRK is reflective....
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Post by Hexspa on Mar 31, 2017 16:50:00 GMT
I thought the FRK is reflective.... I forgot whether you're performing this task at an RFZ point. -m
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42mb
New Member
Posts: 12
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Post by 42mb on Apr 1, 2017 0:12:15 GMT
I thought the FRK is reflective.... I forgot whether you're performing this task at an RFZ point. -m Yes, first deflections for the main speakers. I think I will build some small frames to fit into the grid and staple the fabric to the sides..
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Post by Hexspa on Apr 1, 2017 4:46:19 GMT
I forgot whether you're performing this task at an RFZ point. -m Yes, first deflections for the main speakers. I think I will build some small frames to fit into the grid and staple the fabric to the sides.. Post pics when you're done! -m
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Post by escritorjuan on Jul 11, 2017 14:37:09 GMT
My curiosity is piqued by the membrane absorber you describe in several of your online articles. I am thinking of building a couple for my listening area to decrease bass bounce back off rear walls. Quick question: Would a .25 inch fiberboard front, as opposed to plywood, work? And how about using 3" recycled denim insulation as opposed to rigid fiberglass insulation? The reason I ask is that I have some of this lying around my home from previous projects. My idea was to use MDF for the other exterior walls of the traps. I already have some treatments in my listening room, which sounds pretty nice, and currently houses a pair of Destination Audio Horn Loudspeakers that I demo for Sam Wisniewski of Destination Audio in the Chicagoland area. You can see a few pics here: www.ayllonmedia.com/destination-audio---chicago-showroommedia.htmlThanks,
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Post by escritorjuan on Jul 11, 2017 15:27:05 GMT
Alternatively, I could also build a simple frame around that same three inch thick, recycled denim insulation and glue some thin membrane (like plastic or light blocking material) to the front and cover the whole structure with cloth, placing it on a stand inches away from the wall. Would that be as or similarly effective as the membrane absorbers you have spoken on in your sites in treating bass?
Thanks,
Juan
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Post by Ethan Winer on Jul 11, 2017 21:16:48 GMT
As explained at the beginning of my article about wood panel bass traps, I don't recommend them for most rooms anymore. They do work, but "porous" rigid fiberglass type traps are better for all the reasons stated there. I go into even more detail in my Bass Trap Myths article linked in the READ THIS FIRST sticky post for this forum. So for a room like the one in your photos, I suggest porous absorbers. Use FRK faced rigid insulation for corner bass traps, and non-FRK at the side-wall and ceiling reflection points, and on the wall behind the listening position. Or your suggestion of plain and DIY-faced denim insulation is good too. --Ethan
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Post by escritorjuan on Jul 11, 2017 23:56:32 GMT
Thanks, Ethan.
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