|
Post by Hexspa on Nov 17, 2017 3:29:16 GMT
I'll just put this here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/audioengineering/comments/7cxacd/making_bass_traps_from_foam_panels/
Hopefully, I didn't misquote anybody. I've recently come back to realize I need to keep that beginner's mind. It's tempting, and far too easy, to say "I know" when I really don't. The main thing that helped me on this AEF form is the willingness to get my teeth knocked out when I'm wrong but that never stopped me from jumping into the fray. I continue that valiance in that thread and, hopefully, beyond.
There's just so much wrong information out there. For a content-creator like me, that's great! So long as I can find the correct answer then I can deliver it to my audience. We'll see if I can build trust that way, as Ethan has.
Thanks.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2017 11:20:37 GMT
Tomorrow i will make bass traps out of egg crates, i've also read that they soundproof well
|
|
|
Post by Hexspa on Nov 18, 2017 0:33:56 GMT
Tomorrow i will make bass traps out of egg crates, i've also read that they soundproof well It's funny because that's exactly how I began my acoustic treatment journey except I used apple spacers from my produce job. I love that the one dude called your room a "statistical anomaly". Let me know if you need help eating all those omelettes
|
|
|
Post by seanbeasley on Nov 19, 2017 5:14:05 GMT
Hexspa,
I was reading the thread on Reddit. Your humility is very humbling I must say. I will add that I’m using Roxul for my treatments, because frankly it’s more affordable than 703. I’m interested to really know and hear what it can do, Ive noticed a lot of folks going that route. My only concern with the Roxul is at the 2.5 lbs per cubic foot ^3—am I only realistically going to rid the high end flutter or am I truly going to control part of the low end?
I saw your video for the chunks, very cool. I’m a framer and have been around corner bead since forever. Since it’s galvanized it will withstand some vibrations, but if I can make a recommendation of using rubber washers as a dampener. Even the O-Rings for sink faucets could work when crimping together.
But I totally agree with one of your comments regarding the mass and weight of the chunks—anything other than a light weight ‘metal’ material would make it impossible to do anything with them as far as relocating, moving etc.
|
|
|
Post by Hexspa on Nov 20, 2017 1:48:02 GMT
Hexspa, I was reading the thread on Reddit. Your humility is very humbling I must say. I will add that I’m using Roxul for my treatments, because frankly it’s more affordable than 703. I’m interested to really know and hear what it can do, Ive noticed a lot of folks going that route. My only concern with the Roxul is at the 2.5 lbs per cubic foot ^3—am I only realistically going to rid the high end flutter or am I truly going to control part of the low end? I saw your video for the chunks, very cool. I’m a framer and have been around corner bead since forever. Since it’s galvanized it will withstand some vibrations, but if I can make a recommendation of using rubber washers as a dampener. Even the O-Rings for sink faucets could work when crimping together. But I totally agree with one of your comments regarding the mass and weight of the chunks—anything other than a light weight ‘metal’ material would make it impossible to do anything with them as far as relocating, moving etc. Thank you for the kind words. I have to credit Ethan for teaching me not to be such a douche on the forums. It's still hard though, sometimes. Part of what comes with knowledgeability, for me at least, is arrogance. This very topic comes out in a video I just shot; it should be out next Monday on my channel and it's about what I learned over 1000 posts on this forum. Thanks for checking out my videos. I'm curious about how to exactly combine the O-rings with the bead. Regardless, I currently recommend vinyl drywall bead for anyone planning to use the Steven P. Helm frame (drywall bead) because the metal one oxidizes and stains the fabric. It also is prone to bending and is dangerously sharp. The bead has never given me any audible rattles or resonances but that's not to say it has no effect. Whether vinyl bead is acoustically better, I don't know. Having a lightweight frame is definitely a plus. Permanent installations look nice but, I agree, they're probably the least flexible of options. Regarding your 2.5pcf insulation: thickness and quantity of coverage are your friends. If you look at this link, you see that Safe n' Sound (2.5pcf) and RHT40 (3.5pcf) are of no significant difference at 125Hz when 3" thick. However, add one more inch to RHT40 and the difference is substantial. A 4" thickness of SnS isn't listed at 2.5pcf but you'd have to guess that a similar trend applies. To be safe, you could always use 6-8" of thickness. Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by seanbeasley on Nov 20, 2017 5:44:05 GMT
When you rivet the bead place the oring in between and sandwich it between. Bitch to line up sometimes, but my friend and I were able to do it. Cheers!
|
|
|
Post by Hexspa on Nov 20, 2017 7:13:00 GMT
When you rivet the bead place the oring in between and sandwich it between. Bitch to line up sometimes, but my friend and I were able to do it. Cheers! Oh, cool. I hadn't realized you'd made this design. Thanks for the tip.
|
|
|
Post by Ethan Winer on Nov 28, 2017 21:07:40 GMT
I'll just put this here: https://www.reddit.com/r/audioengineering/comments/7cxacd/making_bass_traps_from_foam_panels/ Hopefully, I didn't misquote anybody. You done good.
|
|
|
Post by Hexspa on Nov 28, 2017 22:11:24 GMT
I'll just put this here: https://www.reddit.com/r/audioengineering/comments/7cxacd/making_bass_traps_from_foam_panels/ Hopefully, I didn't misquote anybody. You done good. Thank you, professor
|
|