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Post by Hexspa on Aug 1, 2018 0:41:17 GMT
Patate, you've got some good things going in that room for sure. I am not seeing a 'green' waterfall plot, just blue and red, whereas that's the best SPL color. Please try an attenuating low shelf EQ to see its effect on your null. That is unless you desire that hyped bass 'house curve' that many recommend.
A few more things you can try are angling your panels vertically. I did that in my room and it worked wonders. This is in contrast to angling them horizontally across corners. In fact, in my front two corners, I combine those approaches by leaning a panel vertically and across. I do have a lot of treatment near my sub but, whether it's effective because it's near a corner or near the sub, I'll guess it's got more to do with the boundaries than the source.
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 1, 2018 0:29:50 GMT
Nice post, Mr. Lawrence. I didn't know that but I'm happy to hear it. Patate, an organ has a distinct and continuous amplitude envelope whereas most basses, when plucked, have a much quicker decay. Based on that alone, I'd say that, yes, and organ is more likely to excite a narrow resonance if played with sustained notes.
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 1, 2018 0:24:47 GMT
The Yamaha HS sub doesn't totally suck. It goes down to 32Hz in my room, my graphs are around here somewhere. I think any sub is a good sub if you have no sub. You can always save up in the mean time.
Maybe I'm wrong but, for me, 90% of sub is just levels. Extremely precise transient, or envelope, response, ultra-low distortion, and other qualities don't seem that important to me. I'm a midrange guy, and mono, and I consider sub bass almost a necessary evil.
If you're a bass head then you probably think I'm crazy. I understand because that necessary evil is still necessary.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 31, 2018 0:04:28 GMT
Patate, I don't remember whether you're using a sub. Regardless, you may be able to reduce that null by attenuating your sub level directly or with EQ. Don't ask me why but I found that too much bass can mess up other frequency areas.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 31, 2018 0:01:44 GMT
Well that's perfectly logical actually. It's the low frequencies that require the most "work" from the amp and loudspeaker. If you're cranking them, you very likely are increasing the distortion throughout the entire bandwidth in a few different ways. REW can be configured to show distortion products and harmonic levels. Might be an interesting test. This is why it's generally good practice to use subs even if the full range speakers play down nearly as low. I thought the same thing. Good point about using the sub. An additional benefit of using a sub is that you can, in theory, balance your measured SPL response using one in conjunction with your mains.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 29, 2018 7:38:34 GMT
There tends to be some default 'best practice' locations that seem to work repeatably well. The best one, I've found is 1/4 distance of your short, front, wall in the corner that 'sees' your longest length angle. Floor or ceiling doesn't matter but as close as possible to two boundaries does.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 29, 2018 7:33:14 GMT
All I can think of is you're hearing less of a higher range. Bass can be considered anything below 250Hz, for some people. In my case, I've been surprised how low 40 and 50Hz really are. Bass, as most people know it, is usually between 80-150Hz.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 24, 2018 3:37:44 GMT
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 24, 2018 3:23:32 GMT
I love seeing the metal frames. Pasim does indeed have a well-balanced room although he does have plenty of absorption in it. I'd go with the 70kg/m3 since it'll probably give you more low-end absorption where it's most needed. No one has problems with ringing at 500Hz.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 21, 2018 23:23:59 GMT
I think that notch at 68Hz is also a candidate for corrective EQ. It's worth giving a shot, anyway. Just remember to take a few measurements in your seating radius to determine its balanced effect.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 17, 2018 22:46:20 GMT
I want to gwt the flatest response I can without EQ. My next move will be a minidsp to get an active crossover. The current one cross at 800hz and horn can go to 600hz. I then plan to use a little bit of EQ to get the maximum out of my room and setup. I'm having fun doing this and i learned a lot about acoustic. Ok, so you're a geek lol. I say that lovingly, as a geek myself. No shame there, brother. 'Minidsp' sounds like you're into hifi. We're officially out of my knowledge garden. Even so, maybe I can squeeze some relevant juice out of my lime. Please season my advice with a grain of salt.
Two things come to my mind regarding your situation and they are: positioning and decay time. Positioning affects your SPL response and a short, evenly-tapered decay time might be more important than a flat SPL response. I looked at your room graph and I believe you can improve your layout. If you haven't heard of the 38% rule then check it out. If you have heard of it then maybe it's time to revisit the basics.
There's no doubt that additional absorption will help you with decay. The problem arises from the fact that broadband absorption gives diminishing returns. If you're in a permanent facility then you can consider resonant absorbers to optimize your decay. As per this forum's status quo, you should only deploy this option only after maximizing your broadband effort.
Lastly, I heard you say that superchunks don't give you a positive benefit. I'm going to disagree and postulate that you either A. didn't put in a great enough quantity or B. didn't experiment sufficiently with their placement. In my room, I have 9 4'hx31.5"w superchunks and they form the basis of my bass management. The front 4 are spaced off my corners about 2.5' and have rigid angled panels angled vertically and leaning against the corners behind them. I actually took measurements of several panel-chunk arrangements in this room before settling on this current one. Like Ethan and Yngwie say, 'more is more '- more absorption and more experimentation.
Hopefully this helps.
Peace.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 17, 2018 19:17:15 GMT
Hi patate. Your measurements look good to me. Pasim is right regarding Ethan's findings and Mr. Lawrence gave you specifics. What are you trying to accomplish?
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 17, 2018 19:13:23 GMT
You do not want paper in the middle between the panels. So peel that side off. What are the effects of having Kraft paper in between layers of fiberglass? I have in my panels papers in between... For example, I have 4inch fiberglass then paper, then 2inch fiberglass. I've heard several times that it's not the ideal situation. Still, I've never seen any hard evidence to the contrary. If you're up for it, you can test it for us.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 17, 2018 19:10:48 GMT
Yes of course. They mentioned in the brochure that it is fire rated. Ethan Thank you again, I'm really appreciate this. I'd like if you can tell us the price. All I can find are quote forms, when I search. It appears to perform much better around 250Hz and perhaps slightly worse in upper frequencies. They treat it with a flame retardant but I still wouldn't smoke around it. If you get some, please let us know how they work out.
Thanks.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 7, 2018 3:28:10 GMT
Ok, thanks for the responses. That makes sense. I have no experience with diffusers but I can recognize my fan whirring behind me. So the takeaway seems that, if mixing in stereo with this effect, it'll just sound like you put your mix through an impulse response and nothing more.
Having just started using reverb more methodically, I'm excited to check out that SoS article on convolution. I remember reading somewhere that you can use any sound, like pink noise, as an impulse response. That article looks like it explores those ideas more deeply.
Thanks.
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