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Post by Hexspa on Aug 5, 2017 3:41:14 GMT
Just a heads up: my primary mixing cloud absorber fell down this morning at 8am, waking me from my slumber.
The perpetrator took down my right main speaker and lamp as well as denting the mineral wool and puncturing the fabric of my right RFZ panel.
Not cool.
The panel was affixed via four drywall anchors, idk whether 1/4" or 3/8" or whatever. I think they're called #8? They're blue. Standard ones, whatever.
This has never happened before but it was noted during installation that the ceiling drywall was noticeably thin. Additionally, I'd encountered what I believe to be joists which blocked the full insertion of one anchor. Unfortunately, I have such an obstruction with one of the recording zone panels as well. Hopefully that one won't come down on me, metal edges and all, during a moment of unawareness.
Hence, I will be going to acquire some toggle bolts for the purpose of rehanging the cloud.
I just wanted to let people know that it is possible for a ceiling-mounted panel to come crashing down.
Thanks.
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 5, 2017 5:51:21 GMT
I just did a little inspection and I think two things went wrong:
1. I didn't screw the hooks in deep enough so the anchor didn't spread out.
2. One wing of one anchor appears broken. Not sure if that happened before or after the slippage.
Strangely, one of the drywall anchors is still in the ceiling and I can't find the fourth hook. Weird.
But ya, tighten them screws in deep even if it feels like there's less torque.
Thanks.
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Post by rock on Aug 5, 2017 13:52:15 GMT
Sorry to hear about your accident, that's too bad:(. I don't like to use drywall anchors but I do use them now and then for lightweight stuff on walls. For heavier stuff, especially on the ceiling, I try to find a joist to screw into. I know it's usually not exactly where you want it to be so you'd have to get creative with the hanging points on your cloud.
Toggle bolts of course should be fine, especially since you already have your holes located. Good luck and be safe!
Cheers, Rock
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 6, 2017 2:18:41 GMT
Sorry to hear about your accident, that's too bad:(. I don't like to use drywall anchors but I do use them now and then for lightweight stuff on walls. For heavier stuff, especially on the ceiling, I try to find a joist to screw into. I know it's usually not exactly where you want it to be so you'd have to get creative with the hanging points on your cloud. Toggle bolts of course should be fine, especially since you already have your holes located. Good luck and be safe! Cheers, Rock Thanks, rock. As it turns out it's the joists that got me. I've run into them before but usually at just one point out of four. It so happens that, in my hurry to surprise Karla with the finished room, I encountered two such joist obstructions which prevented full anchor insertion. So that, coupled with not fully expanding the anchors, lead to only 50% or less security in the system. DARN IT! It does lead to an interesting point about frames, though: some people don't want to use frames for their absorbers but, in this case, the frame took a lot of damage and saved the rigid insulation. Food for thought. I replaced the frame and used a "quad mushroom-type" metal anchor to remount the panel and now everything seems better. Oh well. Let this be a warning to everyone else. Thanks.
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Post by arnyk on Aug 6, 2017 10:21:04 GMT
As it turns out it's the joists that got me. I've run into them before but usually at just one point out of four. It so happens that, in my hurry to surprise Karla with the finished room, I encountered two such joist obstructions which prevented full anchor insertion. So that, coupled with not fully expanding the anchors, lead to only 50% or less security in the system. DARN IT! It does lead to an interesting point about frames, though: some people don't want to use frames for their absorbers but, in this case, the frame took a lot of damage and saved the rigid insulation. Food for thought. I replaced the frame and used a "quad mushroom-type" metal anchor to remount the panel and now everything seems better. Oh well. Let this be a warning to everyone else. This is pretty ironic. Many (most) people go looking for joists when they are hanging things. Once you find one, just run an appropriately sized wood screw or screw eye into it! All the stuff for hanging items on drywall is for those *unusual* cases where you can't find a nearby stud. BTW no matter what your preferences in this matter are, there's a standard tool called a "Stud finder" that is actually a metal detector that presumes that where you find nails and screws, you'll find a stud.
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Post by rock on Aug 6, 2017 14:54:41 GMT
"Stud finder" that is actually a metal detector that presumes that where you find nails and screws, you'll find a stud. Actually there are at least 2 types: The magnetic/metal detector and the density type. I use both but the density type is, from my experience, generally more useful. home.howstuffworks.com/question271.htmCheers, Rock
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Post by arnyk on Aug 7, 2017 10:10:10 GMT
"Stud finder" that is actually a metal detector that presumes that where you find nails and screws, you'll find a stud. Actually there are at least 2 types: The magnetic/metal detector and the density type. I use both but the density type is, from my experience, generally more useful. home.howstuffworks.com/question271.htmIt had to happen. Interesting. Helpful. People sometimes ask me "How do you know all that $#!* ? It is updates via information like this that stimulates me to do some research, update what I know, and move on. It had to happen. I literally grew up in the 60s as an electronics tech fixing radars for the Army. My radars were the extra-crispy CW Doppler kind that were in their way among the most complex piles of electronic gear around, after computers. Just before I got drafted, I was fixing mainframes for IBM so by the time I was in my early 20s, I'd been both places, hands on and up to my shoulders in the works. I was thinking the other day that while most people don't think deep thoughts about it, a GPS receiver is composed of at least a half dozen highly sensitive, highly precise microwave radio receivers in chips so small that even my watch has one of these chips, let alone the ones in relatively large devices like my phone and tablet. In those days, a (1) microwave receiver or radar receiver was a like 19" wide, 6 foot high rack cabinet full of tubes. My primary radar in the Army had over 400 tubes, and therefore it dropped dead about once a day. I kept ahead of it with a regular semi-trailer full of replacement parts, a screwdriver and my wits. Now a half dozen of them and an antenna are in a regular man's watch case. Most of the watch is a computer that outperforms the room-sized mainframes that I worked on before the Army. It turns out that the density-based stud finders are arrays of microwave receiver/transmitters with a computer to analyze the signal that gets bounced back, and a display. It had to happen.
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 7, 2017 10:46:04 GMT
There are actually three types and one is my girlfriend Karla.
Kidding aside, I do have a stud finder but I couldn't figure out how to use it. Guess I never tried that hard.
Good to be reminded about preference for studs and the correct method.
I was in a Patriot battery during my time in service. Didn't deploy and spent most my time pounding ground rods and receiving UCMJ.
At least I got an honorable discharge.
Thanks.
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Post by rock on Aug 7, 2017 12:32:02 GMT
The trick with using the density type is NOT to calibrate it on or too near to a stud. The "calibration" procedure is simply holding the stud finder flat on the wall, pressing the button and waiting a couple seconds until the indicator lights go off. Then, to find the stud, slide the unit across the wall. When the leds start to turn on slow down and when they are all on, you've found the edge of the stud. Mark it with a pencil. Keep moving and when the lights start to go off, back it up until all on and pencil mark again. The distance between the marks will probably be about 1 1/2 inch, the width of the stud. Do this again up about 1 or 2 feet and below 1 or 2 feet to verify you are actually on a stud.
If you did not calibrate correctly, either the lights won't come on or will come on randomly. Try to calibrate in another spot.
Studs are usually 16" on center so once you find one, it's easy to verify by measuring 16" and testing again.
Oh, and then there's the old "knock on the wall trick"; when you hit a "dead" spot, you've found a stud.
Cheers, Rock
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 7, 2017 23:42:33 GMT
The trick with using the density type is NOT to calibrate it on or too near to a stud. The "calibration" procedure is simply holding the stud finder flat on the wall, pressing the button and waiting a couple seconds until the indicator lights go off. Then, to find the stud, slide the unit across the wall. When the leds start to turn on slow down and when they are all on, you've found the edge of the stud. Mark it with a pencil. Keep moving and when the lights start to go off, back it up until all on and pencil mark again. The distance between the marks will probably be about 1 1/2 inch, the width of the stud. Do this again up about 1 or 2 feet and below 1 or 2 feet to verify you are actually on a stud. If you did not calibrate correctly, either the lights won't come on or will come on randomly. Try to calibrate in another spot. Studs are usually 16" on center so once you find one, it's easy to verify by measuring 16" and testing again. Oh, and then there's the old "knock on the wall trick"; when you hit a "dead" spot, you've found a stud. Cheers, Rock Got it, thanks. Ya, I did the ole tap trick this time to avoid the stud. The more you know! Thanks.
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