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Post by Hexspa on Aug 27, 2018 0:41:36 GMT
If you just want better sound and don't want to pour over 10,000 threads then read this:
All you need to do for a great-sounding room is place some 4-8" rigid panels at early reflection points and add super chunks to your corners. If you want more performance then add additional panels to your walls to further improve bass and minimize flutter echo. Air gap the panels 1-2x their thickness for slightly better bass response. You may also angle them however you want to more evenly distribute their effective range. Sit 38% from your front wall, back toward the room's length, and make sure everything from your ears forward is as symmetrical as possible. Lastly, you may put some thin paper on the face of your treatment for better bass absorption but less high frequency absorption i.e. don't do this at your first reflection points.
I estimate that, by following that paragraph, you can have better sound in less time than 80% of the studios you see online.
Thanks.
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deanm
New Member
Posts: 38
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Post by deanm on Aug 27, 2018 2:30:53 GMT
It's the 80 - 20 rule - you can get 80% of the ideal result with 20% of the ideal effort. I like it, and it makes sense, and for the most part, I'm going to do that as soon as I'm able to, and then see where to go (or not).
In the meantime, how do I ignore this nagging suspicion that I *should* already be doing it better somehow? PLEASE SOMEBODY, STOP THE VOICES!!! lol
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 28, 2018 17:07:31 GMT
Exactly. While there's validity to writing 700 page books on the topic, most people don't need to read them. When I look at the treatment in my room, I can't believe how stupidly simple the whole thing is.
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Post by peterbatah on Oct 19, 2018 1:59:09 GMT
If you just want better sound and don't want to pour over 10,000 threads then read this:
All you need to do for a great-sounding room is place some 4-8" rigid panels at early reflection points and add super chunks to your corners. If you want more performance then add additional panels to your walls to further improve bass and minimize flutter echo. Air gap the panels 1-2x their thickness for slightly better bass response. You may also angle them however you want to more evenly distribute their effective range. Sit 38% from your front wall, back toward the room's length, and make sure everything from your ears forward is as symmetrical as possible. Lastly, you may put some thin paper on the face of your treatment for better bass absorption but less high frequency absorption i.e. don't do this at your first reflection points.
I estimate that, by following that paragraph, you can have better sound in less time than 80% of the studios you see online.
Thanks.
Hello Hexspa. When you say "place some 4-8" rigid panels at early reflection points" are you referring to the insulation material used on the inside of the panel? Or, the entire structure itself. Thank you. Peter
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Post by Hexspa on Oct 20, 2018 3:34:11 GMT
If you just want better sound and don't want to pour over 10,000 threads then read this:
All you need to do for a great-sounding room is place some 4-8" rigid panels at early reflection points and add super chunks to your corners. If you want more performance then add additional panels to your walls to further improve bass and minimize flutter echo. Air gap the panels 1-2x their thickness for slightly better bass response. You may also angle them however you want to more evenly distribute their effective range. Sit 38% from your front wall, back toward the room's length, and make sure everything from your ears forward is as symmetrical as possible. Lastly, you may put some thin paper on the face of your treatment for better bass absorption but less high frequency absorption i.e. don't do this at your first reflection points.
I estimate that, by following that paragraph, you can have better sound in less time than 80% of the studios you see online.
Thanks.
Hello Hexspa . When you say "place some 4-8" rigid panels at early reflection points" are you referring to the insulation material used on the inside of the panel? Or, the entire structure itself. Thank you. Peter Ya, just 4-to-8" thick rigid insulation such as 8lb mineral wool, OC 703, 705 or equivalent. The insulation pretty much determines the size of the structure. These boards come as 2'x4'x(thickness) dimensions so normally people just frame 'em up with their choice of material. Many people use wood, with and without holes. I use drywall bead and currently recommend the vinyl variant. You could even suspend them with fishnet; doesn't matter really. With less frame, the more absorbent is exposed and the more efficient the design is.
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Post by peterbatah on Oct 20, 2018 13:16:46 GMT
Hello Hexspa . When you say "place some 4-8" rigid panels at early reflection points" are you referring to the insulation material used on the inside of the panel? Or, the entire structure itself. Thank you. Peter Ya, just 4-to-8" thick rigid insulation such as 8lb mineral wool, OC 703, 705 or equivalent. The insulation pretty much determines the size of the structure. These boards come as 2'x4'x(thickness) dimensions so normally people just frame 'em up with their choice of material. Many people use wood, with and without holes. I use drywall bead and currently recommend the vinyl variant. You could even suspend them with fishnet; doesn't matter really. With less frame, the more absorbent is exposed and the more efficient the design is. Thank you for the prompt reply Hexspa. The big box stores in the area that I live really don't offer much other than the Roxul fluffy stuff. Roxul Safe'n'Sound Available in 3" thickness. So it looks like that is what I will base my panels / traps on. I was thinking of doubling up the sheets to give me a 6" corner bass trap.
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Post by Hexspa on Oct 21, 2018 23:03:44 GMT
Ya, just 4-to-8" thick rigid insulation such as 8lb mineral wool, OC 703, 705 or equivalent. The insulation pretty much determines the size of the structure. These boards come as 2'x4'x(thickness) dimensions so normally people just frame 'em up with their choice of material. Many people use wood, with and without holes. I use drywall bead and currently recommend the vinyl variant. You could even suspend them with fishnet; doesn't matter really. With less frame, the more absorbent is exposed and the more efficient the design is. Thank you for the prompt reply Hexspa . The big box stores in the area that I live really don't offer much other than the Roxul fluffy stuff. Roxul Safe'n'Sound Available in 3" thickness. So it looks like that is what I will base my panels / traps on. I was thinking of doubling up the sheets to give me a 6" corner bass trap. We generally recommend fluffy to be at least 8" thick.
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Post by peterbatah on Oct 22, 2018 15:27:37 GMT
Thank you for the prompt reply Hexspa . The big box stores in the area that I live really don't offer much other than the Roxul fluffy stuff. Roxul Safe'n'Sound Available in 3" thickness. So it looks like that is what I will base my panels / traps on. I was thinking of doubling up the sheets to give me a 6" corner bass trap. We generally recommend fluffy to be at least 8" thick. Good day Hexspa . Thanks again for chiming in. I really appreciate it. Interesting. I don't know if I can find anything in a 2" thickness to give 3 + 3 + 2. My other challenge is going to be one of the corners in my small room. It is the entrance to the room. I assume that I will have to hang a panel from the door or construct a stand (maybe on caster wheels) for one of the 8" panels that you mentioned. Edit: Unless I go 3 x 3" for a 9" depth. Don't see why that would be an issue. Just me thinking out loud.
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Post by Hexspa on Oct 23, 2018 22:32:17 GMT
Ya, 'at least' meaning do 9"+. With fluffy, there's no real upper limit to how thick you can make it. 3', 6', 12' even will take care of 20Hz. I have a super chunk and an angled rigid panel in front of my only exit. It's a fire hazard but I move it before I go to bed. The price of good sound, I guess.
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Post by peterbatah on Oct 23, 2018 22:40:41 GMT
Hexspa. I would have to be careful with the door as it opens toward the inside of the room. Perhaps something on wheels that would move in the event that someone would barge into the room. I'll have to make time soon to do the math on how to get the biggest bang for my buck material wise. Don't want too much wastage. Thanks again and have a great evening / afternoon / morning. Peter
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Post by Hexspa on Oct 23, 2018 22:47:36 GMT
I've done cost analysis myself and, at least where I am, the material isn't the tie-breaker. You'll spend more money on frames, fabric, mounting hardware, and shipping than anything. Just get whatever is available, preferably on sale, so long as it fits in your room.
Fluffy panels are wide enough as to be stacked, saving on mounting hardware. Rigid panels generally need stands or ceiling anchors and chains. On the other hand, fluffy panels are bigger and require more framing material and fabric.
The tie-breaker, for me, is usually to get what I really want. Whenever I start kicking around options on the sole basis of saving a few bucks, I rarely end up with a satisfying result but I'm virtually guaranteed to waste valuable time. Your mileage may vary in your area, however.
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Post by peterbatah on Oct 24, 2018 17:54:11 GMT
Thanks Hexspa. When I said that I didn't want too much wastage, I wasn't referring to $$$. I was referring to materials. How about frame weight when it comes to the wood. Is there anything special that I should be gravitating towards. Eg. pine, MDF, plywood, particle board, etc. I may also consider cutting slats into the sides to reduce weight as has been discussed here in another post.
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deanm
New Member
Posts: 38
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Post by deanm on Oct 24, 2018 20:56:07 GMT
opening the sides is not just to reduce weight, it also increases absorption by exposing more of the absorber's surface. i like the construction method that Hexpa has mentioned on here of using vinyl drywall bead for the frame. that'd make it lightweight, completely exposed except for the corners, and it would probably stay more straight than thin pieces of wood.
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Post by peterbatah on Oct 24, 2018 21:24:29 GMT
opening the sides is not just to reduce weight, it also increases absorption by exposing more of the absorber's surface. i like the construction method that Hexpa has mentioned on here of using vinyl drywall bead for the frame. that'd make it lightweight, completely exposed except for the corners, and it would probably stay more straight than thin pieces of wood. deanm Thank you for joining in the discussion. Yes, I am aware that "opening the sides is not just to reduce weight, it also increases absorption by exposing more of the absorber's surface." Hmm Vinyl drywall bead. I must have missed that post. Will have to look it up. Thank you for bringing that to my attention. Have a good one.
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Post by Hexspa on Oct 25, 2018 2:05:32 GMT
Plus it's cheap as hail!
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