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Post by Hexspa on Oct 29, 2018 4:19:02 GMT
We need to think about your vocal range. G2 is 98Hz with an 11' wavelength. That means you need 3' thick absorption to totally kill it. Using the air gap principle, you could also do 15" fluffy with a 15" air gap or even 6" rigid with a 4x air gap for good effect. Now that you know the standard, you can work out what's feasible. My opinion is to treat the vocal booth moderately and use it for rehearsal. Spend the big money to treat a corner of a larger space to capture master recordings. Trying to get phenomenal sound out of a large closet is just fighting with physics, like rock said. The standard room volume for vocal production, according to the BBC, is 1500ft3. Please don't make me find the reference.
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Post by tiggerdyret on Oct 29, 2018 8:31:41 GMT
Thanks for taking your time and helping me out here. I really appreciate it Noted, I'll will see if it is feasible to make the room this small and whether or not it is worth the hassle for a sub optimal solution anyway. I also see if there aren't better recording solutions for me. I'll definitely build the panel and worse case scenario I can hang them in my living room and make it my recording space for a few days. Is it alright if I build panels around my amp cab? I'd probably have the heads outside. That would give a lot of space... Edit: I messed around with mic position and gain and got way better results. Not saying it's perfect, but better is always... well... better Røde K2: www.dropbox.com/s/fxk9jiia9861gz4/Dismissive%20StrangersVox1.wav?dl=0SM57: www.dropbox.com/s/qjsysdg659olmig/Dismissive%20StrangersVox2.wav?dl=0
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Post by rock on Oct 29, 2018 13:21:40 GMT
I'll just add that porous absorbers don't have a sharp brickwall cutoff but rather a gradual roll-off. What this means is that you do get some, albeit less, LF absorption from less than optimum thickness. So just because you only have 8" to 16" thickness does not mean you won't get ANY improvement below 400Hz to 200Hz, just less than 100%.
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Post by rock on Oct 30, 2018 2:00:08 GMT
"I'll definitely build the panel and worse case scenario I can hang them in my living room and make it my recording space for a few days."
Don't bother building a panel for testing. Just place the raw insulation and do your tests. If you like it, build it into your booth. If it's permanent, It might be easier to frame it in place and cover the whole wall with porous grille cloth like material.
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Post by Hexspa on Oct 30, 2018 5:01:38 GMT
Thanks for taking your time and helping me out here. I really appreciate it Noted, I'll will see if it is feasible to make the room this small and whether or not it is worth the hassle for a sub optimal solution anyway. I also see if there aren't better recording solutions for me. I'll definitely build the panel and worse case scenario I can hang them in my living room and make it my recording space for a few days. Is it alright if I build panels around my amp cab? I'd probably have the heads outside. That would give a lot of space... Edit: I messed around with mic position and gain and got way better results. Not saying it's perfect, but better is always... well... better Røde K2: www.dropbox.com/s/fxk9jiia9861gz4/Dismissive%20StrangersVox1.wav?dl=0SM57: www.dropbox.com/s/qjsysdg659olmig/Dismissive%20StrangersVox2.wav?dl=0That K2 example sounds passable. I have an SM57, though, and I can definitely hear boxiness around 200-300Hz. Like you mentioned, mixed in a track, the song and performance matter more. The position I'm taking is that of the optimal sonic result. Whether you already have treatment in your booth, I can't recall, but I'm sure you can do something with it if you try.
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Post by tiggerdyret on Oct 30, 2018 9:30:34 GMT
Rock: Cool, noted I think I'll start with the bass traps and make a new assessment from there. Should their height span from floor to roof? In the drawing the bass traps aren't triangular, but would it be better to shape the fiberglass in triangles to the corners in the back too?.. Of course minding the the 10 cm gap to all points of the wall. Hexspa: I'm glad you find the K2 passable I think it sounds decent too. I do have some patches of mattress foam up there, but it's probably the diamond shape doing it's magic, that was the intent anyway.
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Post by rock on Oct 30, 2018 19:01:36 GMT
Q. "Should their height span from floor to roof?" - A. Yes. PLUS the ceiling should be covered too. As I explain below you can suspend a 4" thick panel 4" from the ceiling or you can use an 8" panel directly against the ceiling. Obviously, you'll need to choose the thickness depending on your own height because your ceiling is so low to begin with!
Q. "In the drawing the bass traps aren't triangular, but would it be better to shape the fiberglass in triangles to the corners in the back too?.."
A. If you're suggesting a solid fill of fiberglass as opposed to a 4" thick panel placed across the corner, Yes the solid "SUPER CHUNK" is more effective than a panel
This is not a question but I sense you don't understand exactly how the "gap" works. "Of course minding the the 10 cm gap to all points of the wall."
Explanation: The air gap is a "trick" to economize and use less absorber volume to get LF performance that approaches the use of twice the volume at 2 times the cost!
In example: A 4" panel placed 4'' away from the wall will perform LF absorption almost as good as an 8" panel placed in contact with the wall.
There is no magical reason to use an air gap, it's just that if you have the space, and don't necessarily want to spend more money on thicker material, you get more LF bang for your buck using the space.
Now you may be thinking, "If a 4" gap is good, wouldn't an 8" gap be better and so on?" well Yes...and No. The short story is that you would get even lower LF absorption at the expense of less absorption of some frequencies in between. In the case of equal panel and gap thickness i.e. 4''panel + 4" gap, the "holes" in the absorption between are virtually non-existent.
SO in conclusion, if you have the resources, leave NO GAP and fill the space to the wall as thick as possible.
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Post by tiggerdyret on Oct 31, 2018 14:07:51 GMT
Ah, yes I see that there is a pretty significant price difference, when using the dense stuff. I'll go by your first suggestion then.
I'm a fairly tall fellow so I think the best solution for the ceiling will be to make the side panels a bit shorter and add tilted panels (bass trap style) from the top of the wall-panels to the ceiling and then add 4" directly to the ceiling in the center where I'll be standing.
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Post by rock on Oct 31, 2018 21:58:13 GMT
That's a great idea! By tilting the ceiling panels you'll get your headroom plus a little more LF performance.
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Post by tiggerdyret on Nov 1, 2018 13:48:33 GMT
Cool, I made the preparations next step collecting all the materials and I'm ready to build
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