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Post by Hexspa on Jul 4, 2016 6:02:49 GMT
Ok the video breaking down the construction, tools and materials is shot. I'll have it up either this thursday or next.
Thanks rock,
-m
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Post by rock on Jul 4, 2016 13:43:57 GMT
Thank You for sharing the details! Yes, I can see how a hole punch is much easier to use than a drill but I'm sure your right that if you had a vice or place to clamp the bead and a scrap of wood to back up the metal, drilling might not have been quite as difficult either. To remove pop rivets, if you need to, simply drill them out with a sharp, 1/8" bit.
Thanks again, Rock
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Post by Ethan Winer on Jul 5, 2016 16:45:45 GMT
would paper or plastic film glued to the front of the superchunk improve LF performance (of course at the expense of less mid/high absorption)? Yes, bass absorption increases. I'm sure you saw this, but just to be sure: Density ReportYou can clearly see that the FRK types absorb more bass. --Ethan
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Post by rock on Jul 5, 2016 17:01:21 GMT
Thanks Ethan, you're right, I saw that report. I should have been more specific. I was referring to film used on superchunk as opposed to 4" panels.
To completely rephrase the question: In using film to increase LF performance, are the increases proportional regardless of the panel thickness (say 4" vs 6" vs superchunk) or is the "return improvement" diminishing with increased thickness?
Thanks, Rock
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 6, 2016 9:25:24 GMT
Rock,
That's an interesting question of which I wouldn't have thought.
Eyeballing the graphs on Ethan's link, it would appear that FRK has more effect when applied to thicker panels - even with less total quantity. That's good news considering the paper I applied to my chunks was clearly shy of the insulation's entire surface area but it is centered toward the thickest part of the chunk - the vertical edges are quite thin anyway.
Again, and I know we're all objectivists here (cough), the audible difference between "with and without paper" on my chunks was immediately noticeable in the low-end resonances from the fans in my room - they gave an almost Dubstep-esque wobble much more clearly with paper!
-m
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Post by Ethan Winer on Jul 6, 2016 15:23:05 GMT
Right, all I know is what I measured in that series of tests.
--Ethan
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 7, 2016 10:05:42 GMT
Hey guys. Here's a short two minute video showing the completed, but raw (no fabric, paper or batting), superchunks. I also show how I broke down my old panels, give a fabric pattern and show a completed white 4" panel. youtu.be/1-rZ3Oah_jYThe video giving the details on superchunk construction will be up next thursday. And of course it would be sooo dooope if you could subscribe on YouTube and help me take over the planet. Thanks, -m
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Post by Ethan Winer on Jul 7, 2016 19:30:17 GMT
LOL @ take over the planet.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 8, 2016 10:19:46 GMT
LOL @ take over the planet. "Muahaha" you mean
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 14, 2016 17:33:34 GMT
Hey guys, Prepare yourselves. I hereby bestow upon you the hidden knowledge of How to Make Super Chunks From Drywall Bead, Tie Wire, Blood, Sweat and Feels: youtu.be/r4vfcu0cmy0It's a long video but I've given time codes in the description for smooth sailing. Please give a thumbs up, comment and subscribe if this has helped you at all. If you hate it then thumbs it down to hell. I'll be there waiting Shout out to rock for giving me this idea by requesting it. This is for you man!! (We need a beer cheers emoji) Thanks to Mr. Ethan without whom I'd be listening to my room's resonance powered by golden gear and probably severely in financial debt. Peace, -m
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 17, 2016 12:34:45 GMT
Hey guys. I have a question:
If absorbers work best at 1/4 wavelength and I have ringing at 70Hz due to a 95" ceiling, then wouldn't it be best to put absorption bisecting that plane?
In other words, instead of trying to solve my ringing at 70Hz by mounting panels from the ceiling, couldn't I just make acoustically-transparent "tables" and place batts ON them?
The only downside is removing available space but I don't want to make a bunch of holes or move stuff to mount things from the ceiling.
Same thing goes for cloud absorbers - given that I have no obstructions on the floor between my speaker and ears, couldn't I get equal benefit from placing absorption on the floor - or mounted some multiple of the absorbers thickness off the floor? I mean, if a corner is a corner then a reflective surface is a reflective surface, right?
Basically, instead of hanging several 4" panels from the ceiling to control that ringing, couldn't I just use the available space behind me to solve that 70Hz ringing issue? I mean, when I had all my raw R19 stacked up behind me and laying on the floor it seemed to be making an audible difference.
I hope this is clear. Please let me know.
Thanks,
-m
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 19, 2016 1:37:57 GMT
Well, I've put up my RFZ panels. I'll be making a video showing the finished product tomorrow. What. A. Difference.
-m
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Post by Ethan Winer on Jul 19, 2016 20:22:10 GMT
Your question above wasn't clear to me, anyway.
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Post by Hexspa on Jul 20, 2016 5:04:24 GMT
Your question above wasn't clear to me, anyway. It probably was unclear to everyone but me. ha This thread is also sort of a blog/notepad to help me move forward. I just ask the ghost of Ethan Past and I get a response in my dreams generally... In any case I'll shoot my vid for Thursday. Hopefully you guys will be happy to see what I've done. Thanks, -m
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Post by rock on Jul 21, 2016 12:49:59 GMT
Hey -m, Was off line for awhile, catching up now. Great video, very clear and detailed, Thanks!
About the 1/4 wavelength of the ceiling mode (any mode fro that matter), yeah, I guess it makes sense to put an absorber horizontal midway between the ceiling and floor but practically, I think it will be in the way. Even though, it might be cool to experiment to see what results you get. Maybe you can borrow saw horses or rig a makeshift stand?
As far as reflection point absorbers on the floor VS ceiling, you will benefit from both or either but usually the ceiling cloud is out of the way and can be thicker and spaced from the ceiling whereas the best you can usually do with the floor is to use a thick pad and rug/carpet. If you can't put holes in the ceilings/walls you are, of course, limited. Maybe you can consult a painter to see what it would cost to patch holes and paint when you move? It might be worth it?
Cheers, Rock
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