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Post by trombosaurus on Dec 17, 2020 17:16:07 GMT
What do you think of using steel stud track for the frames of the panels??, I saw a post somewhere where a guy did that it seems like a very clean and easy solution and I can but a 10’ stick of 3 1/2 “ 25 gauge track at my local drywall supply place for $4.25!!!!!!
Lumber is heavy and suuuuuper pricey these days.
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Post by rock on Dec 17, 2020 21:17:44 GMT
You can use many things, yeah stud track will work but if you can keep some the side edges open (does the track have holes?), you and improve absorption and overall effectiveness. Hexspa made a video showing how he used corner bead. I believe he later used plastic bead instead of metal. www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4vfcu0cmy0At my local Home depot, they have cull lumber for 20 or 10% of the price in the back so if you're lucky, sometimes you can get useable wood for cheap. |
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Post by trombosaurus on Dec 18, 2020 1:07:25 GMT
Thanks for the link and the info. I’ll check it out
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Post by trombosaurus on Dec 18, 2020 22:23:12 GMT
Hiyo Hexspa. Did you ever build traps with vinyl corner bead?? I was wondering if they could be glued together instead of using rivets?  ? Best Lars |
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Post by rock on Dec 18, 2020 22:54:51 GMT
Let's see what Hexspa says but those slippery plastics can be pretty glue un-friendly... but I guess if you find the right glue it would work.
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Post by trombosaurus on Dec 20, 2020 23:05:50 GMT
And so it begins. I started to cut the drywall strips and I have a pail of GG sitting here. Since you all have so very generously let me lean on your experience and expertise , I thought that I would share a picture. Best and thanks a to Lars  |
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Post by rock on Dec 21, 2020 1:15:16 GMT
Hi Lars,
Looks good. Thanks for keeping us updated.
Things that I believe I have not mentioned: One concept about good sound transmission attenuation ("sound proofing") is keeping the room "air tight" or "water tight" sealing all seams and cracks. Another is addressing "flanking", that is sound transmissions through structural members between rooms to isolated.
I see the floor joists conduct to the block wall through those wood blocks. Vibrations from the wall can travel to the floor above and vice-versa. Isolating the block wall from the sound with an interior wall is one solution. The wall is massive and the transmission is probably somewhat minimal but the path does exist. Just be aware and try to minimize things like this. Replacing those wood blocks with isolation devices is another idea.
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Post by trombosaurus on Dec 21, 2020 2:08:50 GMT
👍
I have now decided on a clip and channel ceiling system for a couple of reasons, clips and fasteners are probably gonna cost about $100 and a floating decoupled ceiling system would cost more like 200-300 and as there is no way to do rollover blocking there is a good chance that the new joists will warp and mess up the drywall. And also track and clips will be much faster. I will start with a single layer of 5/8” type x and if I’m not satisfied I can always add another layer. I may end up framing a wall against the block wall as I need insulation too, since the rest of the basement is not insulated, thus I can keep my instruments at a somewhat stable temperature and avoid a tuning nightmare.
Best
Lars
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Post by trombosaurus on Dec 21, 2020 3:30:23 GMT
Just to clarify on my estimated cost, the numbers does not include drywall, only structure, and,,, this is going to be way easier to insulate the clip system solution.
And as anyone who has done any ceiling work knows, anything to make it easier, we’ll take it.
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Post by rock on Dec 21, 2020 5:15:54 GMT
I'll admit and repeat as I said all along, I am not the audio expert! Especially when it comes to sound proofing and construction. I do know a little but I know FAR from it all.
I really don't think you'll get any better help here than you've already gotten (here). Have you checked in with Rod Gervais yet? Conventional construction will probably not get the best soundproofing (but remember, I'm not a builder). I'll add another detail: Rod wrote "DONT USE HAT CHANNEL" and I believe I do understand why.
If you're using this forum and me as your primary information source, you're missing something.
That said, I'd love to see how your project progresses and I wish you success!
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Post by rock on Dec 22, 2020 18:55:20 GMT
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Post by Hexspa on Dec 24, 2020 18:35:02 GMT
Hey gentlemen. I have not used vinyl bead but I did have some. While I do believe I successfully punched holes in it, I did not experiment with glue.
If you use a hole punch and rivets, I imagine the process will be faster and more reversable than with glue. I strongly advise against using a drill - at least for the metal bead.
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Post by trombosaurus on Feb 12, 2021 23:46:44 GMT
Hi Peeps.
I'm back,,, I have been hanging out with BigmouthinDC AKA Jeff Parkinson on the AVS forum and have gotten a lot of help in regards to construction from him,,, I am at the point where I am looking at lighting,,, do any of you guys have experience with LED and dimmers??? the 2 kinds of lights I picked out created a buzz with all of the 5 dimmers I tried,,,,, any thoughts or recommendations.
Sorry for not posting any pictures of progress, I will do my best to get something going..
Best
Lars
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Post by Hexspa on Feb 14, 2021 7:42:30 GMT
Maybe try Hue lights. I don't get any significant buzz from them; about the same as my monitors. You can dim them and, with Color Ambience, use an image as a color source. The light strip can be very bright and even cut to size. The new version can be linked with other ones after being cut, iirc.
Hue lights have the best integration with iOS and I believe Alexa. That means you can control them with your voice. Other similar products are cheaper, like the IKEA ones and Lifx, but I don't think for former has app control and the latter sacrifices color saturation for brightness.
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Post by trombosaurus on Feb 14, 2021 14:59:03 GMT
Thanks, I will look into that
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