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Post by cufreak on Aug 13, 2021 19:51:22 GMT
![]() Hi all, I Just moved into a new house. Half of the finished basement will be for my new mix room. I pored over the READ THIS FIRST sticky and a lot of the bass trap posts so I have an ok grasp on the whole thing. From what I gather, the more bass trapping the better.  I have attached the layout of my room with how I plan to start with the bass traps. Not illustrated are four 2' x 4' x 4" and four 2' x 4' x 2" existing 703 panels that I will use for a cloud and also on the walls to help with flutter. Here is my plan: The 3 tall brown traps will be filled with fluffy stuff. Since more traps = more better I went with quadrilaterals. If the rear trap makes the room too dead I will attach slats to it. There is one blue panel under the window that will be 6" rigid with a 6" gap between the wall. I went with a smaller size here so I can still comfortably access the window. Here are my questions: Since the window is not centered the bass trap on the right is larger. That would most likely cause the right monitor to be in front of the right trap but not the left. Is that a major concern? Should I just make the right side the same width as the left? Any suggestions for a different layout? If I glued paper to the front two traps (front facing and inboard sides) could that potentially cause flutter between the two front traps? Is the Behringer ECM8000 an ok reference mic to use to analyze the room? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your time! TWH    |
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 15, 2021 2:17:05 GMT
Hi, cufreak. Welcome. Just my initial impression is that you have an 11' width and a 22' length. What I expect you to find, when you measure, is that the frequency which correlates to those wavelengths will give you trouble. If I were you, I'd figure out what frequencies those are then try to make my absorption 1/4 wavelength. Probably the best you can do is 1/4 the width of your room and put that in your rear cavity.
If your rear absorber will already be over 2' then you're probably on the right track.
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Post by rock on Aug 15, 2021 15:28:46 GMT
The one thing that stands out for me is the large volume of bass traps in only 3 locations. That's not a bad thing but in general, more even distribution is usually better use of bass trapping. You also have the ceiling/sidewall corners where you could locate bass traps. You also mention a cloud. If possible, treating the entire (or much of the) ceiling area can work really well for LF especially if your ceiling is not finished (or you have a suspended ceiling grid) and you can utilize the space between the ceiling joists.
The rectangular shape of the front traps is good for increased trap volume but since you ask about the parallel reflection with the back wall, a diagonal face from wall to wall solves that issue. I would not worry about lack of bass trap symmetry due to front window position.
Deep trap at the back wall is good but what's the deal with that partition wall at the back? It's not the worst thing in the world but it's not helping either. Can you remove it? If so, you'd open up the side now being blocked by the partition. Could you use thinner absorbers to fit behind the door? Thinner absorbers of course won't do a lot for the LF but it won't hurt either.
That's just my 2 cents. What you have there is not bad but if it's not built yet, you might start acoustic measuring and see where you are now and whatever direction you go, you can compare future results. I don't have any recommendations on measurement mics but you don't need super accuracy as you are really looking at the "big picture". My understanding is pretty much any mic designed for acoustic measurements will be fine for most list member's purposes.
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Post by Hexspa on Aug 15, 2021 20:06:08 GMT
Yes, I was assuming OP would add more panels. As Ethan has shown, coverage beats thickness.
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Post by cufreak on Aug 18, 2021 15:39:02 GMT
Hi, cufreak. Welcome. Just my initial impression is that you have an 11' width and a 22' length. What I expect you to find, when you measure, is that the frequency which correlates to those wavelengths will give you trouble. If I were you, I'd figure out what frequencies those are then try to make my absorption 1/4 wavelength. Probably the best you can do is 1/4 the width of your room and put that in your rear cavity. If your rear absorber will already be over 2' then you're probably on the right track. Hi, Hexpa. Thank you for the warm welcome. I think what I will do is build the front traps and use my existing panels to treat the room. I will then take measurements and figure out the best depth for the rear trap. Thank you for your input! -TWH |
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Post by cufreak on Aug 18, 2021 15:52:03 GMT
The one thing that stands out for me is the large volume of bass traps in only 3 locations. That's not a bad thing but in general, more even distribution is usually better use of bass trapping. You also have the ceiling/sidewall corners where you could locate bass traps. You also mention a cloud. If possible, treating the entire (or much of the) ceiling area can work really well for LF especially if your ceiling is not finished (or you have a suspended ceiling grid) and you can utilize the space between the ceiling joists. The rectangular shape of the front traps is good for increased trap volume but since you ask about the parallel reflection with the back wall, a diagonal face from wall to wall solves that issue. I would not worry about lack of bass trap symmetry due to front window position. Deep trap at the back wall is good but what's the deal with that partition wall at the back? It's not the worst thing in the world but it's not helping either. Can you remove it? If so, you'd open up the side now being blocked by the partition. Could you use thinner absorbers to fit behind the door? Thinner absorbers of course won't do a lot for the LF but it won't hurt either. That's just my 2 cents. What you have there is not bad but if it's not built yet, you might start acoustic measuring and see where you are now and whatever direction you go, you can compare future results. I don't have any recommendations on measurement mics but you don't need super accuracy as you are really looking at the "big picture". My understanding is pretty much any mic designed for acoustic measurements will be fine for most list member's purposes. Thanks, rock! I will start off with the traps in 3 locations plus my existing eight 2x4 panels and then take it from there. I don't have the time to tackle the entire room in one shot. Plus I don't want to rush it and make poor choices. The parallel reflections (flutter) I was concerned about would be between the two front bass traps if I glued paper to them. Thinking about it now, the two large front traps will be freestanding and away from the wall a bit. I can always just angle them slightly if there is flutter. The room was finished with sheetrock and carpet by the previous owner. I guess that partition is there for privacy. That used to be a computer/office nook. I could remove it but that would be at the bottom of my list. I ordered the behringer ECM8000 to take measurements. I will update this thread as the project evolves. Thank you for your input! -TWH |
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Post by rock on Aug 21, 2021 13:24:06 GMT
About that partition: It's probably never going to be of any practical use at all and can be a source of unwanted reflections. At the very least, it may just end up being in the way and you'll wonder why you didn't get rid of it in the first place. I think the first thing you should do is to knock it down and start with an open floor plan.
Additionally, on second look, it seems like you have a significant space ( 4" or more" ) on the back wall behind the door opening. You can use that to your advantage with absorption about equal to that thickness. Above the door opening, you can extend the thickness to 2' continuing your back wall bass trap to the wall above the door.
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