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Post by lebeet on May 21, 2018 14:29:18 GMT
Hello! First of all, thank you so much Ethan for all the free information that you've made available. I've learned a lot the past few weeks, but still trying to figure out the best way to set up my home studio room. It's a bit of an odd shape and the 5 windows and closet in the back of the room are making it a bit difficult for me to know the best positioning of my desk and my bass traps. The room will be used primarily for mixing and tracking vocals, by the way. I've attached a diagram that shows the position that I will likely orient my desk/speakers. While there's plenty of wall space available to mount absorption at first reflection points on the side walls and ceiling, I'm not sure how to deal with the back of the room because of the closet. I was thinking of making narrower bass traps (4'x1'x4" or 4'x18"x4") to mount above and next to the closet doors. These would filled with Roxul Rockboard 60. Would these still be effective at only 12" or 18" wide though? Another place that would be convenient to put bass traps would be underneath the windows in the front of the room, I could fit 4'x2' panels there, but not sure if that's a great place to have them. I'm thinking it could be somewhat effective because lower frequencies travel a more omnidirectional path from the speakers. Of course I can put some larger traps on the side wall to ceiling corners. I'm thinking if I just do all of this it should be enough. Would appreciate any input though! Thank you!! Lee    |
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Post by Hexspa on May 22, 2018 7:11:12 GMT
Hey lebeet. Welcome to the forum. I think you're on the right track. Windows in front are good. I think you might need your listening position further back, around 38%. Regarding the rear wall, you could always fill the closet with fluffy and keep the doors open. The more absorption, the better. If you leave your rear door open then you will probably reduce ringing. That means you might not need a bass trap there. Ethan says that the front wall is the last place you need absorption. My advice is always to empty the room, take a measurement, and see where you're at. From there you can begin adding absorbers and taking stock of their effect. I see tons of floor corners you can fill with soffits. Cool white Axiom 49. I have the red one  Cheers. |
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Post by rock on May 22, 2018 18:05:52 GMT
Right, Hexspa has some good advice. I'll add that regarding panel size, try to keep them full size (24"x48"). Above the closet door in the back, you might have 14" to the ceiling (that's what I have in my house). To install a corner trap above the door, you can angle them at 65 deg (or whatever) so they will fit. (found a triangle calculator: www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html?vc=90&vx=10&vy=&va=&vz=24&vb=&angleunits=d&x=97&y=7You don't have to install them at 45 but of course the less volume behind them, they won't perform exactly the same but the coverage area will be the same and that's a good thing. The blue panel standing in the corner looks good, another one above it will should fit. If you need to cut an inch or two to make a panel fit it won't be the end of the world but try to maximize your area. If you can't leave the doors open, you can attach panels to the doors. You can also try hanging panels on the doors with those "over the top door hooks". Along with LF corner traps, covering the rear wall with absorption is never a bad idea. Like Hexspa says, measuring the empty is good. It will give you a baseline. If you remeasure as you add treatment you'll see how your panels are working. I have a 1st gen beater Axiom 61. Picked up for $25. You get what you pay for; took me a month to fix all the problems. I use it primarily (and almost exclusively) with GSI's VB3 Hammond Clone SW www.genuinesoundware.com/?a=showproduct&b=24 Sounds almost as good as my 1947 CV and Leslie but weighs hundreds of pounds less. |
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Post by Hexspa on May 22, 2018 23:48:18 GMT
Right, Hexspa has some good advice. I'll add that regarding panel size, try to keep them full size (24"x48"). Above the closet door in the back, you might have 14" to the ceiling (that's what I have in my house). To install a corner trap above the door, you can angle them at 65 deg (or whatever) so they will fit. (found a triangle calculator: www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html?vc=90&vx=10&vy=&va=&vz=24&vb=&angleunits=d&x=97&y=7You don't have to install them at 45 but of course the less volume behind them, they won't perform exactly the same but the coverage area will be the same and that's a good thing. The blue panel standing in the corner looks good, another one above it will should fit. If you need to cut an inch or two to make a panel fit it won't be the end of the world but try to maximize your area. If you can't leave the doors open, you can attach panels to the doors. You can also try hanging panels on the doors with those "over the top door hooks". Along with LF corner traps, covering the rear wall with absorption is never a bad idea. Like Hexspa says, measuring the empty is good. It will give you a baseline. If you remeasure as you add treatment you'll see how your panels are working. I have a 1st gen beater Axiom 61. Picked up for $25. You get what you pay for; took me a month to fix all the problems. I use it primarily (and almost exclusively) with GSI's VB3 Hammond Clone SW www.genuinesoundware.com/?a=showproduct&b=24 Sounds almost as good as my 1947 CV and Leslie but weighs hundreds of pounds less. Martinic had some cool organ VSTs which are now unsupported, the F and the V: www.vst4free.com/index.php?dev=Martinic The F is a Farfisa and the V is the VB3, I guess. The demos on that GSi page are pretty intense.
And as you mention, angling the panels can have a surprising effect. I tried flat-gapping my panels but it wasn't as good as collapsing them length-wise toward the wall. Not sure what degree they're at, maybe 15 degrees.
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Post by rock on May 23, 2018 0:52:22 GMT
The two big "combo organ" brands in the 60's were the Farfisa and the V was, at least in that context, almost certainly for Vox. The VB3 stands for "Virtual B 3" as in the ubiquitous Hammond Model B3. My Model CV is a similar predecessor but the B3 (and C3 in the "C"hurch cabinet) were the pinnacle of Hammond's efforts.
Yeah, I think the angling of panels has at least two factors: One being the increased and varying gap. The second being the angle of incidence.
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Post by lebeet on May 23, 2018 2:58:49 GMT
Thanks for the replies y’all.
Lots of good ideas. I like the idea of building soffits and/or putting pink fluffy in the closet. Curious how well this will work if the closet doors are closed, I probably won’t want to keep them open. I read on another forum Ethan suggesting making soffits out of cardboard boxes, seems like that could be a really cheap and effective treatment. Not totally sure where I would put them, I’m fairly concerned with keeping as much floor space open as I can so I can record drums and have small rehearsals in the room.
Anyway I think I will start building stuff and experiment, measure the results.
I love my Axiom Pro 61, it has been a workhorse for me. Played tons of gigs on that thing and it works great. Never seen a red one.
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Post by Hexspa on May 23, 2018 11:43:10 GMT
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Post by rock on May 23, 2018 13:15:10 GMT
Fluffy in the closet with the doors closed will not absorb because the doors will reflect sound like a wall. If you will keep doors closed while recording/mixing cover the doors with rigid FG or mineralwool etc. 4" if you can.
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Cheers.
